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Description

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Product Description For Dream Number For Ants

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How to Build Dry-Stacked Stone Walls shows how to build a wall using the traditional method of dry stone masonry in which carefully selected stones are properly stacked and held together without mortar. As well as being beautiful, a dry stone wall is stronger, more stable, and more resistant to climate than a mortared wall.

The book features more than 100 full color photographs of walls, bridges and decorative garden elements in various steps of construction as well as illustrations that show the steps and cross sections that illustrate the building methods.

Author John Shaw-Rimmington explains how to build a dry stacked stone wall, coursed walling, bridges, follies and more. He explains the important principles that contribute to the structural integrity of each.

He covers all of the essential elements of dry stone building:

Design
The foundation
Packing or backfilling within the wall
Slope of a wall face, an “A” profile provides stability
Bridge stones that span the width of the wall
Coping, the top stones of a wall
Weight-bearing stones in an arch, bridge, dome, etc.

Shaw-Rimmington then guides the reader through the building process. With dedication to the task and the author’s experienced guidance, the only limit is imagination.

From the Publisher

How to Build Dry-Stacked Stone Walls: Design and Build Walls, Bridges and Follies Without Mortar

Working With Stone

I remember that momentous day 30 years ago, when I was taught to use a simple hammer and chisel to trace a line around a particularly large, round hunk of granite fieldstone. I was encouraged to hammer the chisel over and over along that line. Occasionally, I turned the stone over and hammered a corresponding line on the other side. I was to keep hammering until, by some kind of masonry magic, the rock split apart to produce two flat faces.

I worked at that granite rock for what seemed like an hour. Nothing seemed to be happening. My hands wanted to give up. The mason who was teaching me came over now and then to say, “Keep at it. It should open up pretty soon.”

Sure enough, after another 100 or so blows, the stone started making a different sound. I could see a faint crack beginning to appear. My masonry instructor returned to see how I was doing.

“Don’t hit it any more in the places where you already see a hairline crack,” he explained, “but keep chiseling where the stone doesn’t appear to be splitting yet.”

I kept at it until, amazingly enough, the stone split right down the middle, magnificently, like some stale, pre-sliced, over-sized hamburger bun. Two sparkling faces, never seen before by human eyes, stared back at me.

I instantly forgot how numb my fingers felt. This was the first successful collaboration between my mind and hands over stone. And yet it wasn’t at all aggressive. For all the pounding and effort, there was no sense of any violation done to the stone. Instead, I felt I had released the inside of the stone into the world.

Next, I learned how to shape the halves into cube shapes by chiseling four straight sides around each round face. When I was done, my two chunky stones lay beside all the other shaped stones, waiting to be put into a stone foundation. I had split and squared my first small granite boulder. My hands were eager to get started on the next one. Each time I look at old walls, I think about the hands that built them. Judging by the moss and lichen on the stones, the last time some of them were moved could have been over a hundred years ago. Each rock was placed by hands that are no longer with us, but there is a stony memorial to them in the silent stones in the wall. Antique furniture tools and dishes have value because we can imagine the people who made and once used them. So, too, with old stone walls. They evoke a respect for the people who built them, thereby leaving their timeless mark across the countryside.

Step 1: Arranging the Stones

Locate and gather many more stones than you think you will need to build your wall.

If you are buying stones and having them delivered, figure on 1 ton of stone per 2 linear feet of standard freestanding wall, 4 feet high. That will give you enough choice as you build and leave you some left over.

If you are gathering stone, collect what you think are bad stones as well as good stones so you don’t have to break the good ones to make rubble filler. Always have enough selection available at the site to be able to work for at least the whole day.

Remember, you need to have enough material to be selective as you work, since it’s unlikely you’ll be able to use every stone.

At the site, move your material by wheelbarrow or hand truck and separate the stones by size. Place them flat on the ground and spread them out as much as possible so that you can see them. However, if the ground is likely to freeze, you may want to leave them in piles so that only the bottom stones are likely to freeze to the ground.

When unloading stones, never throw stones onto other stones. They might break, and you can never make stones bigger again. If you must throw stones (off a truck for example), use the flat, more breakable ones tipped upright. If you are dumping stones on a driveway from a truck, first put down plywood and sand to soften the impact and cause less breakage and less damage to the driveway. Separate and store candidates for through stones, the long stones used to tie the wall together.

Lay aside enough large, flat stones to use near the top of your wall and for coping. Leave paths through the piles of stone so that you can easily walk away from your wall to find the right stones.

Leave ample room to walk along the sides of the wall as you build. This is also a safety precaution — you don’t want to have to step over or on top of stones as you walk along your wall. A spacious work site gives you room to make good decisions about fitting.

Herringbone Wall

We used a herringbone pattern on the Irish Ditch built during a workshop we taught in Brockport, New York. This type of wall is wider than most dry stone walls. The sides are built with like-sized stones, and the wall is filled with smaller, less useful stone material. Lastly, the wall is topped with a covering of at least a foot of top soil.

In regular horizontal-coursed walls, stones laid flat only have their own weight (and the weight of some stones above them) to limit any shifting. But stones laid diagonally (as in a herringbone pattern) are further held in place by the weight of all the stones leaning to the left and right of them. Stones in a herringbone wall are more connected, and their dependence on each other is quite structural.

As long as the ends are built with anchoring boulders, the wall is extremely sound and strong.

Buckhorn Wall

There is an abundance of surface limestone and granite rocks in the Buckhorn area of Ontario. On this property alone, there was so much stone to be found in the hedgerows, as well as from the excavation sites for the pool and house, that no extra stone had to be brought in. There were some areas on the property where attempts had been made in the past to build with this gnarly stone, so we have tried to emulate this style in the walls we have built.

The chunks of stone, which are predominately limestone, are impossible to shape. One hit with a hammer causes the stone to break in totally unpredictable ways. The chunks of granite are too hard and too time-consuming to try to shape, except where the tips need to be knocked off to fit. Our client asked us not to use any pink granite in the wall. This was odd as the pink granite is found naturally here, along the gneiss, schist and dolomitic rock deposits.

Yoni Wall

The stones lying around your property are often the only ones available to you, but can you work with them?

These stones at first looked like real troublemakers. Not the kind you would choose to have on the job site. There was no getting around the fact that these particular combinations of stone shapes and sizes were very challenging. The wedge-shaped faces were not conducive to being laid flat and flush. Conventional coursing or random stacking were tricky, so we tried doing something different.

First, we laid out a footprint for two parallel curving walls, then laid the stones vertically, the way you would cope the top of a wall. We wanted to create the same protective and comforting feeling of enclosure along a length of pathway that you can experience walking along the narrow lanes in England’s Lake District.

The two separate pairs of walls curved around behind a large redwood tree, where they opened up into a small enclosure.

Publisher ‏ : ‎ Firefly Books; Illustrated edition (October 4, 2016)
Language ‏ : ‎ English
Paperback ‏ : ‎ 200 pages
ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1770857095
ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1770857094
Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 1.6 pounds
Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 10 x 0.5 x 8 inches